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As I started the installation, I wanted to make sure to read the instructions
from the spoiler's distributor. That gave me a base to start my measurements.
This spoiler is a TRD replica. That means it uses the factory attaching points. To
the left you can see the holes in the rear lid from the factory used to attach the
spoiler.
There is a rubber plug in one, so just pry it out and keep it aside to reinstall
when you are finished. |
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I started by centering the spoiler on the rear lid. I wanted to lightly
mark around the spoiler in pencil to make sure of the attaching points before drilling
anything.
Once I checked the measurement between the holes under the lid to the meassurements
of the spoiler tracing, I was sure it would use the original mounting points on the
lid. |
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There are pointed allen screws included with the kit. Screw them in
BACKWARDS but not too far. They are there to mark the exact points that you will
need to drill. They are designed to scratch the paint slightly which will be a good
guide to drill.
Just make sure you have the spoiler centered. This was my reason for the trace of
the spoiler on the lid during the trial fit.
What is the old saying? "Measure twice and cut once." Well that applies
to drilling as well. |
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The pics above and to the left show my first hole being drilled. After
maeasuring at least twice, (I think it was more like five times.) I drilled the first
hole UP through the rearward hole in the decklid.
I made sure it was centered. That would give me the first starting point for making
the scratches for the rest of the holes. Just leave the rearward allen screw out
slightly more than the others. Then set the spoiler back on the lid and the allen
screw will go into the hole. Line up the spoiler to center and press down on it firmly.
This will mar the paint at the other three drilling points. Make sure to measure
tham to make sure they are centered, then go ahead and carefully drill the remaining
three holes. |
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After the 4 mounting holes were drilled I had to make a hole for the
wiring to operate the third brake light on the spoiler. I measured (twice) where
it was located between the mounting holes. There is plenty of room for error on this
hole. The hole in the spoiler pedestal is very large.
Make sure to use the rubber grommet included or the wire will rub through and short
out.
Remember to remove the four tapered allen screws at this time. You will not need
them for the rest of the installation. |
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On the spoiler itself, run the padded tape along the edges and stick
on the padded rings where the bolts go into the pedestal. This will help seal the
spoiler from leaking. This really isn't the issue on this car, but I used it anyway
to help preserve the paint underneath.
I also used a gray silicone sealant to seal the holes. the only reason I decided
to do this was th protect the holes from moisture and, hopefully, prevent the drilled
holes from rusting. Touch them up with paint as well. |
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Thread the third brake light wire through the grommet. I fished the
wire out one of the holes where the attaching holes were drilled .
Pull almost all the wire through the hole untill you have about an inch of wire between
the deck lid and spoiler pedestal. This will fold up inside the spoiler pedestal
in case you need slack down the road. Carefully set the spoiler on the orginal trace
you made earlier and start all the bolts from underneath the deck lid.
Tighten the screws snugly and evenly. (The next pic is the one at the top of this
page) |
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Thread the wire through the frome of the deck lid towards the original
third brake light. It is much easier if you do small sections at a time.
Also remove the 2 bolts from the inside of the deck lid that hold the original third
brake light in place. It makes it easier to thread the wire, but you need to remove
it anyway to hook the wiring to the car. (see the pics below for locations of the
two screws. |
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| The pics to the left and below show the original third brake light
removed. You can use the scotch locks provided like I have. If there is a problem
down the road, just have them soldered into the original harness. |
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Once the wires are hooked up, have a friend go inside the car and
press the brake pedal. This is just to check that your connections are good and the
light works properly.
Remember, there is a lifetime warranty on the spoiler AND light.
If everything works properly, just tuck all the wire in and refasten the original
third brake light in the deck lid. (Some people take the bulbs out and paint over
the light to match the deck lid with some touch up spray paint.) |
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Just to finish up the factory look to the spoiler installation, just
pop the rubber plugs back into the holes that they were removed from.
Now take the car out for a spin and see how many more "looks" you get. |
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