Installation Photos and tips:
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First, unscrew the factory shift knob. This has right hand thread,
so turn it to the left.
Get yourself a box to put the parts in so nothing gets lost. |
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The next step calls for removing the four console screws and removing
the console. I found that even though you can get at the rear screws with the seat
pulled front, it was much quicker AND easier to remove the four bolts on each seat
and remove the seats altogether. (don't forget to unplug the wires under the seat
before lifting them out.)
While the seats are out, take the time to sweep under them. Mine needed it desperately!
You also will probably find at least one "PULL" tab from the top release
down there. (Sorry, inside joke.) |
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| Now, the directions tell you to unplug the window switches, but I
didn't have to unplug them. There was enough slack in the wiring to lay the console
over to the side. My guess is that they need to be disconnected if you need to remove
the console . (The instruction don't tell you to remove the seats which gives you
much more room to set the console to the side. |
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I found it easier to work from the passenger side while sitting on
the carpet where the seat was located.
Take your 8mm drift punch and lightly tap the front pin out of the cage assembly.
(Just tap, it's only a plastic housing.) |
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Next, take a screwdriver and slip it behind the push nut holding the
shaft of the shift mechanism to the cage. (I used two very thin screwdrivers to get
it started.)
Wiggle it from side to side very slowly with light pressure out. BE VERY CAREFUL!
There is not a replacement in the kit and if you break this clip you will have to
track down a new one.
Take your time and don't rush this step. Taking a little longer will be a lot shorter
than chasing parts that you may end up ordering from Toyota! |
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Remove the hairpin clip holding the side shift cable to the pivot
shaft.
Watch that you don't drop or lose the washer and bushing in the cable. Take note
of the order they come off for installation later. |
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| Next, just slide the side cable off the pivot. Not much to do here. |
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Look close at the pivot assembly BEFORE pulling it out. Take note
of the spring position to the cage. You WILL need to see this for assembly so it
goes together correctly.
Now, slide the pivot out to the left and set it in your box with the clip. |
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| Lift off the retainer from the cage. Pretty self explanatory |
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Now, this clip is a bit tough to get at. Take a look at how it goes
on to the shaft. It holds the bottom cable to the shifter so it is important to understand
the retainer. If it is improperly installed it will fall off and the shifter will
not work.
It spreads open at the front and you can do it with only your fingers. DON'T stretch
it. It needs to be nice and tight for the installation. |
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Lift the shaft straight out the top of the cage. Then bushings will
have to be reused.
You can take the time now to switch the bushings. I used a small hammer with a larger
screwdriver (for a larger impact area on the bushing) to lightly tap the bushings
off the shaft. Tap them back on the new shaft in the same locations.
Be careful not to break the bushings because they are not available from Toyota.
You will have to buy a new shaft assembly and remove them. I am looking for a source
for these bushings, but don't hold your breath!
Tip: Use some grease on the tips of the shaft before tapping the bushings
on the new shaft. |
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| Remove the four mounting bolts. For this, the size socket was incorrect.
If you use my list of tools, you will have the correct size. |
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| Next, just slide out the metal sleeves inside the rubber mounting
grommets. You need to do this because we will be removing the rubber grommets. These
will be replaced with metal spacers. Put them with the rest of the unused stock parts
in case you want to ever change it back. |
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| With the metal sleeves slid out the bottom of the grommets, the grommets
can be easily twisted out of the cage mounting holes. If you can't do it with your
fingers, just use a regular screwdriver to slip them out. |
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The replacement bushings are all metal. These mounting spacers raise
the cage up close to an inch. Skipping this step would set the shifter VERY low into
the console.
I would not recommend doing that, but whatever is your preference. I am sure someone
out there will try it! |
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Use the longer mounting bolts supplied with a washer on each. I recommend
using BLUE strengthg locktite on the threads to prevent them coming loose.
Tighten all four mounting bolts snugly and evenly. |
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WITH THE BUSHINGS INSTALLED ALREADY from the previous steps. drop
the shaft into the cage. You should put some grease onto the ball of the shaft before
doing this to help it work easier and prevent premature wear on the cage.
Align the new shaft just like the original was aligned. There is a slot in the seal
that goes over the right side shaft arm. Make sure everything slips in nice and smooth.
Nothing should bind. |
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The next step is to install the lower rod onto the new shifter shaft.
Remember how the retainer clip was removed so that you can slip it back on to the
cable end.
I thought this was one of the tougher parts as there is not much finger room. MAKE
SURE you install the split in the clip towards the front of the car and the loop
in the clip goes around the underneath of the cable end.
It should clip tight. If you stretched it, take it back off and bend it back to its
original shape. You don't want to be on the road somewhere and have it fall off! |
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Slide the plastic cap back over the shaft in it's original position.
Watch the rubber seal. You want the cap to go down straight so the seal doesn't fold
over making it work stiff.
When the cap is on straight, push down so everything is seated and you can slide
the side shaft back into the cage. This holds down the rear of the cap.
Don't try to install the spring yet. Just slide it almost all the way through, keep
pressure down on the cap, and do the next step. If yo let up before doing the next
step, you risk the rubber seal folding under and binding the shifter. |
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While keeping pressure down on the cap, slide
the end of the drift pin back into is original position. Just starting it will hold
the cap enough to allow you to leave the pressure off the cap.
Then you can take the small hammer and tap the pin all the way into place. I used
the original drift pin, but on is supplied in the kit which is a bit tighter.
Now, slide the side control shaft all the way in and make sure the return spring
is properly positioned on both sides of the rubber bushing. Also make sure the side
bushing to the shifter shaft is located inside the side control shaft properly. |
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| Once all the previous two steps are lined up properly, slide the side
cable end back onto the side control shaft. Don't forget the washer and clip. |
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Keeping pressure on the side control shaft, you can now install the
retainer clip you pried off earlier.
If it is cracked, GET A NEW ONE. This is just a small peice of steel, but it's important.
It it is cracked it WILL fall off in no time causing you to be stuck.
You can just press it on with your fingers. Then press it with the screwdriver to
make sure it is all the way on and even. |
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The final step it to make sure the shifter works smoothly with no
binding. I may feel "Notchy" until it wears in, but it shouldn't jam.
If everything lines up and functions well, slide the console back into place while
watching that no wires will get caught anywhere.
Install the knob and seats, then take it out and enjoy. See top of page for final
comparison pics and my impression of the kit! |
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