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The pic to the left shows the difference in design
from the standard fender to a "bobbed" fender. Like haircuts, "bobbed"
refers to chopping off or shortening.
I had quite the time to get this fender. It had to be custom painted as they don't
make a bolt-on unit for this year, model, and color Sportster. For every other color,
there are prepainted available. So I ordered it, paid double what any other color
would have cost in full, and waited for it to arrive.
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The pic to the right shows what the other fender
looked like on the bike. With the touring seat removed, you can see how it is shaped
to the bike.
See how the rear tailight shines it's license light up toward the license plate.
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After the removal of the colored lense on the tail
light, you see a chrome mounting plate with wire that plug into the light assembly.
Remove these as well.
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Next I removed the backrest brackets and pad. The
bolt went directly through the original fender with nuts on the underside. I also
popped off the turn signal lenses to get a better angle with the socket, ratchet,
and extension.
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After the bolts were removed, the chrome covers/turn
signal assemblies could also be unbolted and slid to the side. This allowed you to
pull the turn signal wires back throught the fender so it could be lifted straight
up.
Carefully, because the wires continue up the fender through the front of the fender,
which need to be disconnected at a plug where I am pointing below.
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Once the fender is off, take note of how all the
brackets and wiring are routed and positioned. The new fender will need to have the
transfered over and notes help a lot. You don't want to rub some wires through and
have to pull it back off.
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Quick shot of the bike with NO fender on. Looks
strange.
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Drill out the pop rivets in the front plastic splash
guard on the original fender. New rivets were supplied with the new fender. This
plastic guard needs to be installed exactly the same position on the bobbed fender.
Careful not to scratch the new expensive custom paint!
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There are also new clips to hold the turn signal
wires that need to be riveted to the new fenders. These are all included in the kit
as well.
Then you can start swapping the wiring harness into the new clips that you have installed
to match the original fender.
Also install the new blind nuts and plastic retainers supplied. No reason to remove
the old ones.
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Reinstall the electronic box you removed with the
wiring harness on the front of the bobbed fender directly above the plastic sp[lash
guard where it was on the original fender.
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Just reverse the process you used to remove the
original fender. Slip the bobbed fender into place and replace the turn signal mounting
bolts and wires.
Start hooking up the wiring harness by plugging in the front and making sure everything
clears.
Now it's giving you a glimpse of how it will look. I even slipped the seat on to
get a better idea.
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Next I reinstalled the back rest and bolted the
seat firmly. The only thing left was to get the tail light together.
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DO NOT use the original chrome base. It does not
fit into the supplied combination base/lisence plate bracket. This clips onto two
studs under the fender and bolts to the turn signal bolts.
Notice the plate is now below the light.
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Install the original tail light UPSIDE DOWN from
what it was in the original fender. You need the white light to face the plate. Also
remember that the plugs are now on the opposite side from what they were. They don't
interchange in the tail light so you can't really mix them up.
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Test all lights and install all supplied reflectors
for safety and inspection regulations. Just install your plate on the new fender
and hit the road.
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Tools Used:
shop light
Electric drill with 1/8 " bit
Pop rivet gun
Phillips screwdriver
1/2" wrench
Small vice grips
1/4" drive ratchet with long extension
1/4" drive 7/16" & 1/2" flex sockets
3/8" drive ratchet with T20 torx bit
Parts bin to hold tools and loose nuts, bolts, and clips.
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